Exceptional Fashion on the Screen
There is a vast array of elements that lead to a movie being captivating and timeless. There is the directing, acting, the cinematography and of course the soundtrack. Another such element is the costuming within a film. The effects in which character costumes create on their overall personality and role in the film is more impacting then can really be seen from the surface. Whether it be the idea of creating sexual desire in characters, which in the earliest days of film was stark and innovative, or the idea of creating separation between classes and status, costumes are one of the most relatable features in cinema.
Clothing in film is also far more than just the film, it creates trends and influences the face of fashion based on what the stars are wearing - even though they did not choose to wear it - creating the idea of marketing clothes through films: perhaps the most subtle and effective form of brand placement. Sarah Berry (2000) has stated - consumer fashion and film costume are subversive because they encourage fantasys of self transformation. Whilst Craik has noted that styles from film are adopted by a process called selective borrowing, in which audiences pull their favourite fashions from film and add to their everyday wear.
Modern Cinema and television has begun shaping costuming with a far more creative consideration. The 2019 netflix series - Sex Education, dressed it’s entire cast in distinclty 80’s fashion, which can be seen to have had a partial role in the resurgance of the style. It is stated by Sarah Street that through clothing, the appreciation of cinema is enhanced as it if a primarily visual medium. Let’s take a look at some of the most stylish films and how they have used fashion to enhance the narrative.
An Evening with Beverly Luff Linn (2018)
Costumer Designer: Christina Blackaller
1970’s wooly jumpers casual wear and bland but beautiful 1980’s outfits.
I won’t go into the wild comedy of this movie that unfolds at a classically dead-pan New Zealand pace, spearheaded by Jermaine Clement but it is the outfits of the movies lead Aubrey Plaza - Lulu Danger that really stand out as exceptional.
Mad Men 2007 - 2015
Costumer Designer: Janie Bryant
Sleek, sophisticated and perfectly periodic to the 60’s.
Mad Men rejuvenated and created a romantic look at the 1950’s and 60’s. With the extremely suave style of suit wear and relaxed nature within smart casual wear it lead a new generation to go for woolen polo’s and waifer shades. The woman are dazzling and the men are sleek. No
hair is placed in the wrong spot and no outfit goes astray. It is a perfect look at style over a decade.
A Single Man - 2009
Costumer Designer: Arianne Phillips
High class leisure wear and suits so trim they seem painted on.
Tom Ford began his career in making ads and whilst the story, acting and writing of ‘A Single Man’ are movie quality. The look and feel of the film does have the strikingly dazzling nature of an ad. Visually compelling from start to finish. It is vintage class at it’s finest. Suits fitting so well and colours so striking they stick in your head for a long time to come. The moleskin jumper, white pants and loafers have never worked so well together.
Call Me By Your Name - 2018
Costume Designer: Giulia Piersanti
Summer Street fashion in the 1980’s
If you want to see the 80’s fashion that has influenced today greatly, look no further than Luca Guadagnino’s - Calll Me By Your Name. Not only is everything else about this film amazing but the costumes from Guilia Piersanti go beyond. The style is inspired by Giulas own photo albums of her life in Italy at the time. Lacost polos, vibrant shorts and short shorts. Each character gains their own story through what they wear. We get to know them through their style. The use of shades is also as Italian is it comes.
Le Samouri - 1967
One suit for the rest of your life.
As far as style goes, the French are kind of known for it. Alain Delon doesn’t wear much more than a sheik suit with simple variations - the trench coat, the fedora (which perhaps works best with a suit) and the plain white tee. It isn’t just the grace her carries himself but the the shifting colours from blacks to tans to greys. It is style and class.
La Avventura - 1960
Costume Designer: Adriana Berselli Pure Italian perfection.
The neo noir crime drama is pure Italian style. Moving at a beautiful pace the costuming was always going to be good with director Michelangelo Antonioni being known for his beautiful delicacy and aesthetic understanding. The outfit helps us to fully get to know each character context and who they really are, outside of what they are doing. The consideration in creating outfits that work so well with the surroundings makes this film quite special on the alone.